Introducing Kaohsiung Cultural Buses／專人深度導讀 文化公車嬉遊高雄
Experience Kaohsiung's culture in depth
◎English translation: Hou Ya-ting ◎Photo by Li Yun-yu
Kaohsiung is filled with modern and ancient culture. If visitors take a journey to Old Fongshan City (located in what today is Zuoying District), the different district now called Fongshan, or Hamasen by the old harbor, they will see how historic relics blend into modern lives, creating new cultural fusions. People interested in exploring these areas will find Kaohsiung Cultural Buses are an ideal means of transportation. Kaohsiung City Government has launched six Cultural Bus routes: Old Town (Old Fongshan City), Fongshan, Hamasen, Mount Dagang and Dashu District. The Old Town, Fongshan and Hamasen routes have Mandarin-speaking tour guides, but English-language brochures are provided to foreign tourists who hop aboard.
The Old Town and Fongshan routes operate only on the weekend, with one service every half hour. The Hamasen route runs every day except Monday. On weekdays, there is one bus per hour; during weekends, the frequency increases to one service every half hour. For each of the three routes, tourists can purchase a jump-on, jump-off ticket allowing unlimited sightseeing throughout the day.
Zuoying, often lauded as a historical and cultural center, preserves many intriguing relics and major temples. The Old Town bus route take visitors through the heart of this area, via Jhouzih Wetland Park, Kaohsiung Museum of Military Dependents Villages, the east, north and south gates of Old Fongshan City (sometimes called the Old City of Zuoying), Chongsheng Shrine, and the Confucius Temple near Lotus Pond.
The 9.1- hectare Jhouzih Wetland Park is an urban wetland. To preserve this natural habitat, which attracts the Pheasant-tailed Jacana and other unusual bird species, access is strictly controlled. Anyone hoping to enter the park must book a tour in advance.
Kaohsiung Museum of Military Dependents Villages displays items and documents from the era of military dependents' villages. These settlements were inhabited by military servicemen and their family members who had retreated, along with the Chinese Nationalist government, to Taiwan from the Chinese mainland back in 1949. Because Zuoying is a naval base, this area once had as many as 23 military dependents' villages in which thrived unique cultures, lifestyles and cuisines. All but three have been demolished, yet the culinary legacy of these mainlander enclaves fascinates many visitors. Popular restaurants and stores include Sanniou Beef Noodles, Liu's Braised Chicken, Zuoying Shanghai Deep-fried Shredded Radish Cake and Rongyuan's Meat Puff and Millet Congee.
Remnants of the Old City Wall, which was rebuilt in 1826, includes three gates. Both Chongsheng Shrine, located within Jiuo-Cheng Primary School, and Confucius Temple pass down the spirit of Confucianism.
The Fongshan cultural bus route stops at Dadong Arts Center, Fongyi Academy, Fongshan Train Station, Pingcheng Emplacement, Chenglan Emplacement, Binzih Market (Solidier's Market) and Fongshan Longshan Buddhist Temple. Fongyi Academy, established in 1814, was as a flourishing center of classical Chinese culture. It was here, during China's Cing Dynasty (which ruled Taiwan between 1684 and 1895) that residents would study for imperial civil-service examinations. Pingcheng and Chenglan gun emplacements are proof of Fongshan's economic and political status; for much of that era, it was the administrative capital of much of southern Taiwan.
Pingcheng Emplacement is adjacent to Caogong Temple, where Cao Jin, a magistrate who served here in the middle of the 19th century, is honored. He is remembered for constructing waterworks and irrigation systems. Fongshan Longshan Buddhist Temple is also worth visiting. This temple, which is over 300 years old, preserves fascinating architecture and art works created by nationally-recognized artisans. In addition to exquisite stucco and wood sculptures, there are splendid examples of jiannian, three-dimensional mosaics made by cutting porcelain into small pieces, then pasting the shards onto a framework. These traditional crafts have been treasured by many generations.
The Hamasen route takes in what used to be Kaohsiung Harbor Train Station, Wude Martial Arts Center, the Former British Consular Residence at Dagou, Kaohsiung Daitian Temple, Gushan Fish Market, Pier-2 Arts Center, and Kaohsiung Museum of History. The former Kaohsiung Harbor Train Station has been converted into Takao Railway Museum (Takao and Dagou are spellings of Kaohsiung's previous name). Visitors can look over the old railway from Hamasen's Sky Balcony. Wude Martial Arts Center was established in 1924, during the Japanese colonial period, and was a place where police officers learned martial arts. It is one of just a few martial arts halls to have survived from that era. The Former British Consular Residence at Dagou is a witness to how the harbor was opened up to international trade. The residence is also a great spot for enjoying panoramic views or a delightful afternoon tea. While in the neighborhood, one can also visit Kaohsiung Daitian Temple and savor snacks from the food stalls around the temple. This place of worship sometimes holds free Taiwanese Opera performances. Art enthusiasts can also head to Pier-2 Art Center and Kaohsiung Film Archive to experience the city's rapidly developing creative industries.
專人深度導讀 文化公車嬉遊高雄
◎文／李微潤 ◎攝影／李昀諭
想在高雄玩得懷舊、玩得文青、玩得悠閒、玩得開闊，不用太費勁，跳上文化公車、國道快捷、假日觀光公車，都能輕鬆盡興，玩遍大高雄！高雄的文化公車有哈瑪星、舊城、鳳山、大岡山、大樹及紅毛港等6條路線，其中左營、哈瑪星、鳳山3條路線，車上皆有專人導覽。假日每半小時一班車，上車購票即可獲得一日交通券與精美簡介，當日可不限次數搭乘。
「舊城線」公車經過的左營城牆，當年多半由地方仕紳與居民自掏腰包、就地取材建成；到洲仔濕地公園，漫步在步道上欣賞水雉；舊城國小內的崇聖祠與蓮池潭畔的孔廟，體現儒家文化的精神；眷村文化館則保存左營重要的文化史蹟。還有特色眷村美食，例如：三牛牛肉麵、劉家桂花燒雞、左營上海蘿蔔絲餅、榕園餡餅粥等。
「鳳山線」帶旅客遊賞移民歷史與常民生活樣貌。市定古蹟鳳儀書院兼具傳統與現代的園區規劃，能窺見鳳山文風鼎盛的樣貌；曹公廟供奉當年為鳳山興建水利工程、改善農田灌溉而受到尊崇的鳳山知縣曹謹；龍山寺精緻的泥塑、剪黏與木雕等傳統藝術，值得欣賞；周邊景點如番薯街、光明路、金仔街、家具街、糶米街、打鐵街等展現日常生活和喜慶婚喪必備物品，一趟文化公車，讓人大開眼界。
「哈瑪星線」融合新舊文化，舊打狗驛已化身為打狗鐵道故事館，哈瑪星天空雲台可眺望舊鐵道軌跡；建於日治時期(西元1924年)的武德殿為市定古蹟，是當時的道館，也是現今全台少數保存之武館之一；打狗英國領事館文化園區可見證高雄的海洋貿易史，還可登高賞美景、喝英式下午茶，度過愜意午後；代天宮有許多小吃，買份烤黑輪或臭豆腐，在廟宇前的廟埕享用，嚐盡美味與閒適氛圍；駁二藝術特區、高雄市電影館，則可體驗高雄的文創風情。