Tianhou Temple at Cihou The Mazu Tour of Inspection/旗後天后宮 媽祖遶境大典
Tianhou Temple at Cihou
The Mazu Tour of Inspection
◎English text by Peng Hsin-yi
◎Photos Courtesy of Tianhou Temple at Cihou, Yang Chan-hua
The Tianhou Temple at Cihou is a third class historical site located on Cijin Island. Established in 1673, it is the oldest temple in Kaohsiung City and is one of the earliest temples dedicated to the godess Mazu.
"The Tianhou Temple at Cihou is considered to be Cijin Island's most important temple." states Mr. Lyue An-liang (Temple Director). Historically, many of Cijin Island's residents were seafarers and fishermen and considered Mazu their patron deity. After experiencing stormy conditions at the sea, they would faithfully go to the temple to worship and praise Mazu for their safe return. If someone needed temporary help or casual labor, they could always go to the temple and find someone. Later, the temple became a place where people gathered to discuss issues and exchange opinions. Although times have changed, Mazu still watches over her worshipers with gentle, loving grace.
One famous folk story regarding the temple occurred at the end of WWII. The Kaohsiung Harbor had been heavily bombed by the US Air Force, so when people returned after the air strike, they found almost the entire island had been leveled. However, the Tianhou Temple had survived with no damage. The people that had taken shelter at the Tianhou Temple claimed they had seen a lady wearing a long gown, deflecting bombs away with her long sleeves. After the war, malaria spread throughout Taiwan. However, Cijin Island remained unaffected by the epidemic. People believed it was because of Mazu's protection that they did not suffer from malaria and survived the war.
April 3rd (February 19th on the Lunar Calendar) was the temple's 337th anniversary and was celebrated with a Tour of Inspection. A Tour of Inspection is when a religious procession carries a statue of the deity in a palanquin ceremoniously through their parish. It is believed this tour will banish evil spirits and bring about peace and prosperity for the people and their land. During the anniversary, congregations from sister temples all over Taiwan joined the progression with their own palanquins and marching performers. It even featured a Song Jiang Array (a mock military exercise featuring a variety of martial art displays), dragon dances, lion dances, drummers, bands and a variety guardian dieties all came to together to create a spectacular parade. With great enthusiasm, people came out in droves to witness the event. The tour began at 8:00 am, continued until 2:40 am the next day and covered the whole island.
The temple's beauty and historical significance is definitely worth a visit. As you enter, you will see rows of red lanterns hanging above the courtyard. Priceless cultural treasures cover almost every inch of the temple. Many of the artifacts are antiques dating back to the early Ching Dynasty. The intricate and artistic architecture includes dragon and tiger statues guarding the main entrance. They look so real, they appear to almost come alive. Sculptures and murals decorating the main gate, corridors and walls were created by the late master painter, Mr. Chen Yu-feng. Visitors should pay special attention to the delicate lines and detailed facial expressions his work has become so famous for.
Director Lyue also points out that the correct way to enter the temple is from the left and to exit from the right. The door in the middle is reserved for officials only. Mr. Lyue adds if this is adhered to, people will shed their bad luck and receive Mazu's blessings.
旗後天后宮 媽祖遶境大典
◎文／王大衛
◎照片提供／旗後天后宮、楊蟬華
建廟於1673年的高雄市市訂（昔為國定三級）古蹟「旗後天后宮」，是高雄市歷史最悠久的寺廟，同時也是台灣最早供奉媽祖的廟宇。
「旗後天后宮是旗津本地民眾心中的『大廟』」，旗後天后宮呂安良總幹事娓娓道來，早年旗津居民多為討海人，漁民視媽祖為海神，靠海維生的居民，經歷海上波濤洶湧的生活返回港口後，多齊聚於廟埕，在當時，甚至雇主如有短期人力需求，也會到廟前雇用工人，於是廟埕形成一個民眾聚集、意見交流中心。
時至今日，媽祖仍溫柔地鎮守著旗後天后宮，也庇護地方。傳說在太平洋戰爭末期，美軍轟炸高雄港區，空襲後人們紛紛回來整理家園，發現旗津幾乎被夷為平地，只有天后宮仍安然無恙地佇立著，據當時在天后宮躲避空襲的旗津耆老傳說，當時有一位穿著長袍的婦人，以長袍將從天而降的炸彈撥到別的地方，甚至戰後流行的瘧疾也沒有在旗津蔓延開來，當地民眾都深信，這是媽祖特別的庇祐！
4月3日(農曆2月19日)，建廟337週年的旗後天后宮舉辦「遶境」大典。所謂的「遶境」是「神明」年度定期巡視轄區，其目的為驅逐邪煞，祈求平安順適、國泰民安。這天，來自全台各地提供數百頂神轎和藝陣，配合媽祖鑾駕在旗津區內展開遶境活動，各地的陣頭齊聚，有宋江陣、舞龍舞獅、鼓樂陣、神將陣頭等，鑼鼓喧天，當地民眾也熱情參與慶典。「遶境」儀式從早上８點出發一直到凌晨２點40分，範圍遍及整個旗津島。
造訪旗後天后宮，首先映入眼簾的是門口高掛的紅色燈籠，接著就有許多極富藝術價值的文化資產，包含許多自前清時期留下來的文物，而建築本身也充滿精緻的工藝之美，拜殿兩側「左青龍、右白虎」的龍虎堵，雕刻栩栩如生，而廟內大門、通樑、牆壁上的壁畫、浮雕等等，都是出自已故的國寶級彩繪大師陳玉峰之手，細緻動人的線條與人物表情，值得細細品味。
呂總幹事特別提醒，進入廟中時要從龍(左)門進、虎(右)門出，而中間的門是給帶官職的官員使用，他強調，在踏出右門的時候就可以袪壞運，將福氣帶在身上。