Pan Shunlong and Pan Jianjhong’s Handmade Thread Noodles / 潘順龍、潘建忠 兩代福州手工麵線
Pan Shunlong and Pan Jianjhong's Handmade Thread Noodles
◎English translation: Peng Hsin-yi
◎Photos by Pao Chung-hui
Handmade thread noodles get their name from their ultra-thin appearance. Handmade thread noodle making process is complicated. Unlike their manufactured counterparts, they retain their wheat flour aroma and have a superior texture. Originating in Fuchou, China, thread noodles came to Taiwan centuries ago with the early Fuchou noodle artisans. Today only a few artisans continue the traditional making methods.
In Kaohsiung, handmade thread noodles can still be bought from fifty year veteran, Mr. Pan Shunlong in Yanchao District. Each day, he and his son, Pan Jianjhong, begin the prep work at 3:00am, racking and tending the drying noodle during the hottest time of day and typically leaving the workplace at approximately 8:00pm.
Many consider handmade thread noodles as a dying industry. Due to the physical demanding work, Pan Shunlong would previously discourage his son from following in his footsteps. However, several years ago Pan Shunlong was injured, leaving him unable to work. Pan Jianjhong covered for him, even though he had no prior experience. Pan Jianjhong feels there is still a niche market in existence and it is full of potential. Today, he feels responsible for carrying on the tradition, even though the joints in his hands are swollen and distorted after years of laborious work.
Pan Jianjhong believes the charm of handmade noodles is in its texture. Most noodles turn to mush in minutes; however, handmade noodles remain firm and chewy much longer than their manufactured counterparts. The process begins with mixing flour, water and salt into a big dough ball and setting it aside to allow it to mature. This is the most challenging step as the time required for the process reflects the temperature and humidity. Maturing also makes the dough softer and easier to knead. The unique texture can be achieved by kneading the dough longer. The whole process is carried out manually. The noodles are pulled ultra-thin and transformed into thin noodles. They are then moved to drying racks in the courtyard.
"You can spend ten years observing the process of making Fuchou noodles and you'll still be nothing but a spectator", remarks Pan Jianjhong. In order to make good noodles, kneading requires the arms to be immersed deeply in the dough. It took him eight years to minimize the ratio of failed products. Another part of noodle making that requires years of experience is the drying process. Handmade noodles are dried under the sun, so the weather has to be taken into account. If they aren't taken out of the rain in time, the whole batch can be ruined. Mastering the art of noodle making is arduous and time consuming.
Pan shunlong feels no other noodle lives up to the flavor and texture of his handmade thread noodles. Pan Jianjhong adds that there are no additives. Fuchou noodle artisans use only salt as a preservative and sun drying as a natural form of sterilization. Pan Jianjhong is proud that he has finally proven himself and his father and other friends no longer suggest he should seek alternative employment. The father and son team have consistently brought a quality product and have earned themselves many loyal customers. They are confident the business will continue as long as there are people who love handmade noodles.
※Where to Buy ?
Telephone : (07)616-6439
潘順龍、潘建忠
兩代福州手工麵線
◎文／張嘉玲 ◎攝影／鮑忠暉
口感極佳的福州手工麵線，早期由中國福州的製麵師傅來台傳授技藝，但因製法繁複，如今台灣傳統福州式手工麵線的師傅屈指可數，但在燕巢區一隅，仍然飄傳出傳統福州手工麵的香氣。
製麵近50年的潘順龍深諳手工製麵的辛苦，一開始不願讓兒子從事這一行，沒有教他製麵技術。直到潘爸爸一次意外受傷不能製麵，促使潘建忠開始摸索製麵之道，過著凌晨三點即起，頂著中午烈日曬麵，一路工作到晚上八點的製麵生活。許多人認為手工製麵不具前瞻性，勸誡他另尋工作，但他觀察到全台福州手工製麵的傳承已經出現斷層，自己若能堅持，必能有所收穫，於是，即使手因拉麵而關節變形，也從不輕言放棄。
潘建忠說，手工福州麵之所以Q彈好吃，是因麵糰經過雙手搓揉才會顯現彈性。麵體逐漸變軟、適於塑形的過程稱為「醒麵」，每天溫度、濕度的高低都會影響到醒麵的時間與難易，抓好醒麵的時間，才會使麵線好拉、不易斷。從一大團麵糰開始，經過「搓、揉、捏、擠、壓、拉、甩」七大步驟，要使勁出力，講究技巧，才能搓成細細的麵條，再把麵線橫向盤掛到架上曬太陽，場面壯觀。
「福州麵『看』十年也是在看熱鬧！ 」潘建忠表示，製作福州麵的「眉角」太多，若不是親手碰觸麵糰、搓揉摔壓，經驗無法累積，他足足用了八年時間才使每次製麵的良品率提昇到滿意程度 。曬麵時，更常要靠著經驗法則觀察天氣變化，因為一陣驟雨過後，正在曬太陽的麵條就會付之一炬。手工製麵，是一段需要以時間、汗水鋪就的歷程。
當被問起為什麼要堅持手工製麵時，潘爸爸說，傳統福州手工麵線的口感就是好吃！潘建忠則進一步表示，自家手工製成的福州麵線以鹽防腐，全靠曬太陽殺菌。手工麵線保留了自然麵香，軟中帶Q，口感紮實，是一吃就會愛上的好滋味。一路走來，潘建忠自豪的是，旁人終於不再勸說他找別的工作。潘家父子以好成績證明，對品質的堅持與客戶的支持，便是他們最堅強的後盾。
※哪裡買？
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