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Yang's Mantou and Their Marvelous Pork Baozi with Mushroom and Pickled Egg Yolk/楊記傳統饅頭之香菇蛋肉包

 

Yang's Mantou and Their Marvelous Pork Baozi with Mushroom and Pickled Egg Yolk

◎English translation: Peng Hsin-yi

 

  Yang's always opens its doors at 3p.m., but people begin lining up long before then. The staff of Yang's patiently repeat the time when the next batch will be ready, but the yeasty fragrance of freshly made mantou (plain steamed bread) and baozi (steamed buns with meat or vegetable fillings) teases the crowd. Customers shift anxiously, waiting for the beep that signals the steamer is opened. The moment has finally come: Some of those who were waiting leave happily with bagfuls of baozi, while others buy only a few and sit down on stools in front of the store to enjoy super-fresh baozi.

  Inside, the operation moves at full steam. The mouthwatering scent of pork and scallion perfumes the air, while pillow-sized lumps of dough are rolled out on the counter, cut and quickly pressed into rounds. With practiced speed and precision, they are filled with just the right amount of pork-scallion mixture, layered in a whole shiitake mushroom. Finally, half a pickled duck-yolk is added to the top. In a matter of seconds, the dough is folded to create a baozi, with all the goodies secured inside. 

  Ms. Shih Yin-fang, one of the bosses, says the only secret to Yang's baozi is using top-grade ingredients. The mushrooms are from Puli in central Taiwan; when Puli mushrooms are not available, they use mushrooms imported from Japan or Korea. The pork used is picnic shoulder, part of the pig which always has great texture and is very juicy when ground. The pickled duck yolks are fully roasted to induce an exceptional aroma, and the mushrooms are braised to enhance their flavor. Each baozi weighs around 300 grams (0.66 lb), and is a most satisfying snack that can be enjoyed any time of day.

  

Yang's Traditional Mantou (07) 8221473  


楊記傳統饅頭之香菇蛋肉包

◎文/侯雅婷

 

  下午三點,楊記傳統饅頭開賣,排隊的人潮不曾中斷,只聽見店員不停地宣佈著下一爐的出爐時間,現場伴隨著包子出爐的嗶嗶鳴笛聲,空氣中飄著濃濃的包子味和一縷凝重的緊張氣氛,這些人全衝著店裏的招牌「香菇蛋肉包」而來,只見民眾大包大包地扛著包子匆匆離去,少數民眾不貪多,拿著剛到手、熱騰騰的香菇蛋肉包坐在店門口的小凳子上,立即享用起來,顯然於這「鮮」字體會最深。

  工作區正處於尖峰時刻,豬肉和著青蔥,一股鮮味襲來,員工迅速將麵糰大氣地疊上豬肉,豬肉上再疊一塊香菇,香菇上再疊上半顆鹹鴨蛋,只見員工將那麵糰轉得飛快之際,不著痕跡地細細捏著大包子的摺線,將餡料紮紮實實地全鎖在麵皮裏。

  老闆娘施吟芳談起店內招牌「香菇蛋肉包」好吃的秘訣在於用料實在。位居包子排序第一的香菇,選用埔里香菇或是日、韓進口的香菇,使用前腿胛心豬肉使其釋出軟嫩多汁、自然鮮甜的口感,鹹蛋結合滷過的香菇散發迷人的香氣,軟Q的包子皮加之飽滿的餡料,將每顆重達4兩至4兩半的香菇蛋肉包送入口,是最平實、也是最美味的庶民小吃。

  

楊記傳統饅頭 07-8221473  

 

Ginger Duck in the Summer? Yes Please!

◎English translation: Peng Hsin-yi

 

  Ginger duck is one of the most popular winter stews in Taiwan: gamey duck meat tempered with sesame oil and ginger is a sure cure for winter chills. But what is the appeal of dried-ginger duck stew?

  The Duck House is one place making this very unique treat. Unlike other duck-stew restaurants start serving duck stew in October when the weather turns cold; the Duck House is open all year round thanks to this genius culinary invention. Chef-owner Mr. Chen Jin-shi originally named the dish "duck crisps" because the texture of the product is similar to the pork or fish crisps with which the public is familiar. However, because he uses the same seasoning as he does with the stew – ginger, sesame oil and rice wine – his customers started calling it "dried-ginger duck stew," and that name has stuck. When you put some in your mouth, at first it feels crispy feel like a cracker, but it is also a bit chewy, and it slowly releases the sweetness of the duck meat and the fragrance of ginger as you suck on it. This is a snack food which adults enjoy, and a perfect match for Taiwanese tea. Many people become hooked first time.

  Approaching the Duck House in the afternoon, you can detect the warm scent of sesame oil even before you reach the door. Mr. Chen typically fries six woks of his signature dish at the same time, and as he walks from one wok to another, his hands never cease moving. The work is physically demanding, and sweat runs down his neck as he works.

  Mr. Chen uses "red face" ducks (Muscovy ducks) that are five months old or slightly older, and he starts the cooking process by frying the duck with sesame oil and rice wine. When the duck meat reaches a certain consistency, ginger is added. Finally, another generous splash of rice wine goes in the wok to heighten the fragrance of ginger. When the duck meat becomes crispy, the dish is ready.

  Mr. Chen has been in business for 30 years. He pays great attention to detail and is determined to uphold quality. Mr. Chen says that making delicious, high quality food is a matter of honor. In fact, he says, it is an art. The moment he puts duck meat in the wok, the challenge begins. He must adjust his cooking according to the meat's texture, and there is no set recipe telling him how long the meat should be cooked for or at what temperature. He judges this by instinct, feeling the condition of the meat as he stirs. When the duck reaches a satisfying consistency, Mr. Chen scoops the meat out of the pot and lets it drain. It takes about two hours for a batch to cool down and become the delicious treat loved by so many.

  

The Duck House (07)2115739  

 

夏天也不能錯過的「乾的薑母鴨」!

◎文/侯雅婷

 

  由麻油和薑拌炒、熬煮而成的薑母鴨火鍋是驅走寒意的美食,但,您吃過「乾的薑母鴨」嗎?

  有別於許多薑母鴨店從10月天氣轉涼時開始營業,「鴨公之家」全年營業,靠的就是這道厚工的「鴨肉鬆」料理,顧客稱它為「乾的薑母鴨」似乎更貼切。即便是在夏天,客人忍不住嘴饞,處理成餅乾般的鴨肉鬆就像大朋友的零嘴,搭配茶吃很對味!越嚼越甘的鴨肉和薑片酥脆的口感,讓人一吃就上癮。

  下午走近「鴨公之家」,一股暖暖的麻油香氣迴盪整個空間,老闆陳進仕正拌炒6鍋「鴨肉鬆」,一雙手不曾停下,從一鍋移至另一鍋,由汗水涔涔可見拼搏的程度。

  選用5至5個半月的紅面鴨公,以麻油和米酒不停地拌炒鴨肉,之後加入薑片一同拌炒,以米酒提出薑的味道來,拌炒至酥鬆的狀態就大功告成。

  30年來,陳進仕都是如此悉心地料理店裏的招牌,他說,製作出好吃且高品質的鴨肉鬆對他而言是一份榮譽感。陳進仕說,薑母鴨是有學問的,鴨肉下鍋就是挑戰的開始!烹煮的手法得隨著鴨肉肉質狀況調整 ,沒有時間表,拌炒時得憑著經驗去感覺鴨肉的鬆度和脆度,再調整拌炒的手法以及火候,起鍋後須等2小時,待熱度散去,鴨肉鬆冷卻後再品嚐,無論口感 、風味都呈現最美味的狀態。

  

鴨公之家 07-2115739