Strolling Around Jhongyun Fishing Port on a Winter Day／冬遊中芸漁港
Strolling Around Jhongyun Fishing Port on a Winter Day
◎English translation: Peng Hsin-yi
◎Photos by Pao Chung-hui
Linyuan District is the southernmost administrative district of Kaohsiung City. Its south side has a long coastline, so naturally fisheries are central to the local economy. About 10% of the district's population works in fisheries or related industries. But Jhongyun Fishing Port is more than just an economic resource. A unique culture has developed there, based on a sense of community and kinship. For more than 60 years, this fishing town has remained true to its self, and it welcomes the world with its charm.
There is no good or bad time to visit Jhongyun Fishing Port. There are festivities throughout the year, and each is unique and fun. The most popular events include Mazu's birthday and Dragon Boat Festival. Mazu's birthday is the 23rd day of the third month on the traditional lunar calendar. At this time, an icon of the protector of seafarers is placed in a palanquin which processes around the harbor, symbolizing the goddess's protection over fishermen. Dragon Boat Festival takes place in early summer, and features boats which resemble dragons. Painted with vibrant colors, they look festive against the blue sky. Their graceful, slim bodies dash across the port's narrow canal as teams compete and the audience cheers.
On a normal day, fishing boats leave the port between 4 and 5pm, and return at 6 or 7am. Linyuan's best catch in the winter is the Menidae (also called moon fish). This has been a good year, each boat having come back with a full load of approximately 20,000 kilograms (about 22 tons) on board. The fishermen were very excited about their trips, and when the boats unload, the dock is crowded and as noisy as a battlefield. But everything works in perfect harmony; the crew pulls up a gigantic net, sagging with the weight of the day's haul, while their partners arrange baskets on the dock, ready to receive the fish. All of a sudden, the net opens, and moon fish of all sizes rain into the baskets. But they are not there for long – once the baskets are weighed, they are moved to the warehouse and then to the market. Those in the know wait at the side as the boat docks, and make their purchases straight from the fishermen. The fishermen welcome them, and even point them to the biggest fish. Regulars say moon fish has a delicate texture; it is buttery and flaky regardless of its size. The only difference is that bigger ones are meatier and more satisfying to eat. These buyers all seem to have the eyes of a pro. It takes them just a few moments to decide if a fish is satisfactory, another couple of minutes to pay for the purchase, and then they leave, opening the spot for another.
The dock is not the only busy place, as the nearby fish market buzzes with excitement. A fishmonger picks up one fat mullet fish from a basket, and uses his practiced hands to slit it open, extract the egg sac from its belly, shape it into a beautiful golden oval, then lay it on the side. As he works, he chats with customers, many of whom are old friends. People here are all very friendly, and do not mind when visitors ask random questions.
To get a panoramic view of the port, the best spot is the park right across it. From there, you can see fishing boats docked in a neat row. Also worth seeing is Feng Yun Temple, the center of local religious activities. The courtyard of the temple is open to the public, and if you visit it may well be covered from side to side with mullet fish laid under the winter sun to dry. This is where the fish go after the roe has been removed. According to locals, it takes five days for the fish to ripen, and locals then use them to make a local delicacy, dried mullet and pork belly stew.
Jhongyun Fishing Port is a great leisure destination. There, you can experience the special character of a fishing town, and bring home seasonal treats such as moon fish and dried mullet, so you can savor the flavor of the sea at home.
冬遊中芸漁港
◎文／侯雅婷
◎攝影／鮑忠暉．高嘉澤
位於高雄最南端的林園區，南側濱海，擁有近海漁港─中芸漁港，漁村聚落於是形成，有近一成居民從事漁業工作，除了經濟效益外，走過六十載後，中芸漁港因為有暖暖的人情味，漁村文化的真實樣貌更顯動人。
中芸漁港各時節的熱鬧有很多層面，各自演繹不同魅力。仲夏端午舉辦的龍舟競賽，蔚藍的天空下，彩繪五彩繽紛的龍舟隊伍在漁港狹長的水道中較勁；每年農曆3月23日是漁民信仰中心的媽祖誕生慶典，媽祖的隊伍總會繞著漁港走一圈，象徵庇佑討海人平安，眾聲喧嘩中讓人感到無比溫馨。
林園區中芸漁港漁船每日下午4～5點出海捕魚，冬季的皮刀魚正肥美，今年更是皮刀魚的豐收年。期許滿載而歸是討海人出海的動力，約莫早上6～7點，出海的漁船陸續返回靠岸，漁船載回2萬多公斤的皮刀魚，卸貨時，看似熱哄哄的現場，井然有序地運作著。在船艙接應的漁民與在岸邊作業的漁民合作無間，漁民不時得賣力地拉著起吊的大漁網，裝有沉甸甸的魚貨瀝著水被吊起，岸上早備妥一簍簍籃子，待漁網移至籃子上方，瞬間傾倒大量的皮刀魚，片刻即裝滿一大簍，待秤重後，堆高機已在一旁待命。識途老馬的散客會搶在漁船進港的黃金時機前來採買家用的海味料理，船家會大方讓散客盡情挑著體型肥大的皮刀魚。打聽之下，老顧客說無論大、小尾的魚，肉質都一樣鮮美，只是體型扁身的皮刀魚挑大尾些較有肉，吃起來更過癮。前來採購的顧客彷彿早打定主意，個個都有好眼力，只消看幾眼就能判斷漁貨的新鮮與否，選好魚貨旋即離開。
此時，泊著漁船的中芸漁港外圍，早市已如火如荼的進行著。一攤頗具規模的魚販正忙著從成簍烏魚中挑出烏魚子，魚販從容處理著手裏偌大的烏魚，一會工夫就整理好一對肥美澄黃的烏魚子，順手又從籃子撈起另一尾烏魚。魚販與採買魚貨的老主顧話家常，這裡的居民很和善，全然不介意外地人隨意提問，親切地像家人般。
鳥瞰中芸漁港的最佳位置就在漁港對面的公園，泊靠於兩側的漁船展現漁村風情。遊客不妨再前往當地漁民信仰中心─鳳芸宮，廟前廣場周圍暖暖冬陽正晒著烏魚干，經過5天曝曬就可收藏冬季限定的美味。當地人透露這款隱藏版的終極美味：用烏魚干與三層豬肉一起滷煮最是美味！
找個時間到中芸漁港體驗漁村風華，再將這季最鮮美的皮刀魚和烏魚干拎回家，細細品味海味美食。