Embracing the Sea Wind in Cieding／海風之地─茄萣區
Embracing the Sea Wind in Cieding
◎Written by Lin Che-li ◎English translation: Hou Ya-ting
◎Photo by Guo An-bi
Growing up in Kaohsiung's Cieding District is deeply embedded in my memory.
Before I went to kindergarten, I had no playmates, because my parents were busy with work and my older siblings concentrated on their elementary school homework. However, a couple who lived opposite my parents' workplace, and ran a factory, adored me. I often played in their factory, and by the time they were finishing work, if my parents were busy, they would take me home, sitting me between them on their scooter. Many memories from Cieding have been imprinted on me, such as being a bridesmaid and getting a perm for the very first time.
I have deeply ingrained memories of several days at a blue, one-story nursery school on Cieding's coastline. The teachers took the young pupils to the levee to look at the sea. The azure ocean seemed far away. Despite wearing a cap and something to protect my face, as I stood on the levee, the winter wind still felt harsh.
As the fierce wind blew in my face, the icy prickling feeling, along with the unique saltiness, gave me a hint of the ocean which has somehow shaped my initial impressions of the sea.
When I grew up, I realized this saltiness is also present in fresh seafood.
In Cieding throughout the mullet season, a common sight is that of mullet egg sacs laid out in courtyards to dry under the sun. After the mullet roes have soaked up enough sunshine and sea wind, the finished product emerges in the form of golden ovals. These dried mullet roes are slightly translucent. This delicacy has a silky yet slightly glutinous texture, and its saltiness carries the taste of ocean. The reliable mullet season is regarded as a gift from the ocean.
My father used to take us to Singda Port Fish Market, where he would point out different kinds of seafood, and teach us how to pick the freshest seafood. I ate many kinds of seafood, but it was the experience of eating octopus which left the deepest impression. A whole octopus is placed in boiling water, then allowed to cool before slicing. Adults dip morsels in a seafood sauce, whereas children prefer mayonnaise.
Last year, my family dined out at a restaurant near Singda Port Fish Market. Afterward, we strolled leisurely along a nearby levee. After years of wandering far from home, I would not be able to enjoy a meal without the company of my family. The ocean breeze's familiar saltiness brought back memories of my childhood in Cieding District. I was enveloped by a sudden upsurge of reminiscences of the simple yet good life I had enjoyed there.
I had been commuting between Kaohsiung and Tainan for a while. Once, thanks to the red lanterns hanging outside, I had discovered a store selling handmade rolls baked in a clay oven. The rolls' aroma filled the air, and the facade displayed thin-crusted rolls of various flavors. A warm roll just out of the oven is guaranteed to be delicious.
Some friends went to Cieding District this winter. They harbored migrating birds, guarding the habitat. Thanks to their efforts, Black-faced Spoonbills are able to migrate to this temporary habitat every year. I look forward to seeing migrating waterbirds set foot in Cieding's wetlands, so I shall make a journey back to Cieding each winter.
Despite having moved away from Cieding, my ties to the goddess Mazu at Jinluan Temple do not seem to weaken. I still make occasional visits to the Kuo Chang-si Arts Sword Museum in order to scrutinize the Green Destiny Sword, made famous by the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Along the coast, I encounter familiar sea winds; this experience and the sense of saltiness reminds me that this is home.
海風之地─茄萣區
◎文／林徹俐 ◎攝影／郭安比
我曾經當過茄萣的孩子。
上幼稚園前，父母忙於工作，姊姊們忙著小學課業，我成為自己的玩伴。對面工廠主人夫婦對我很疼愛，讓我在工廠玩耍，有時已至下班，而我的父母都還在忙，便將我夾在兩人摩托車座椅中間，從灣裡過南萣橋回茄萣。那裡像另一個家鄉，有許多初次回憶，第一次當花童、燙頭髮……等。
遙遠記憶深處，在茄萣靠海的一座藍色平房托兒所，不知為什麼我在那裡寄讀了幾天，老師們曾帶著稚嫩的孩童到海邊堤防上去遠望海洋，又遠又藍。那是我初次到海邊，冬季海風強勁，小小的我頭戴像全罩式安全帽緊緊包覆住的鋪棉帽，當海風撲上沒有遮擋的臉頰，覺得冰又刺，夾帶一種鹹味。
長大後才發覺，鹹味也是鮮味。
每逢烏魚季節到茄萣去，便能看見屋前廣場，烏魚子平躺在架上日光浴，在海風吹拂及日曬下成為一片片飽滿剔透的金黃，每口吃進嘴裡黏牙柔軟，充滿海的鹹味。烏魚是討海人的恩情人，每年像是約定般前來。
小時候，父親喜歡帶我們到鄰近的興達港觀光漁市場，海鮮微微的腥臭順著空氣滑進鼻腔，夏日時甚至會黏上皮膚。孩子想的就是吃，漁市裡高揚的叫賣聲，賣炸物的老闆在頭上綁條白毛巾，大大的漏勺撈起炸螃蟹，不斷發送試吃。父親還會教我們認識各種剛捕撈上岸的海鮮，鱸魚、土魠、蛤蜊、章魚、海螺……等，並解說如何挑選才新鮮。
自小我也跟著挑嘴的父親嚐過各種海鮮，印象最深刻的是章魚，整隻滾水汆燙，起鍋後放涼或冰鎮，最先用刀從章魚腳小塊切下，大人沾五味醬或蒜蓉醬，小孩沾美乃滋，吃到章魚頭時，墨黑般的汁液一不小心將嘴唇染成如中毒般黑。
去年父親約全家回興達港吃飯，選了一家漁市場旁的海景餐廳，夜晚海風與浪聲夾帶肥美滋味，吃完便沿著餐廳一隅的樓梯走下海岸堤防，在海風中散步。想想自己離家在外多年，一個人吃飯時當然吃不到那麼多肥美鮮味，也很久沒有好好在海邊吹風散步，鹹味海風曾是生活必須品，喜歡海味的單純美好。
有過短暫時光，通勤往來高雄與台南，偶爾我會放慢車速沿途探尋新風景，發現掛著紅燈籠的店家，賣的是手工燒餅，店面不大但傳來陣陣香氣，烤好的燒餅放在店門口櫥窗裡，層層疊疊、或長或圓，皮薄口味很多，剛出爐還冒著熱氣時最可口。
這個冬季，一些朋友到茄萣去了。
他們去守護過冬的鳥兒，守護土地，讓黑臉的鳥兒每年都飛回來過冬。如同言而有信的烏魚，站在風中遠望牠們，我期待著鳥兒能到海風之地來，在有鹽分的溼地中安穩地回家，在港灣庇護裡過冬。
冬季離去前，我也將返鄉。
金鑾宮裡媽祖娘娘一切都好嗎？兵器博物館裡的青冥劍還有人記得嗎？沿著海岸線也許我們都要洄游到海風之地。吹一吹風，沾染一點鹹味，真正的回家了。
茄萣區隔著二仁溪與台南市灣裡左右相望。The Erren River divides Kaohsiung's Cieding District from Wanli in Tainan City's South District.