Military Village Cuisine Remains Popular in Peacetime／眷村人氣美食 溫馨講究的好味道
Military Village Cuisine Remains Popular in Peacetime
Nostalgic flavors passed down from one generation to another
◎English translation: Tan Shu-chun
◎Photos by Pao Chung-hui
The military dependents' villages in Kaohsiung City's Zuoying District are a unique presence and the result of historical circumstances and geographical convenience. Zuoying has long been a navy base, and after World War II, when Taiwan was reclaimed from Japanese colonial rule, the ROC Navy arrived. Military personnel plus their families set up what were supposed to be temporary camps, but they soon became permanent settlements. These new arrivals may have come from different provinces in China, but their shared military background helped them create a common culture unlike any other in Taiwan. The food traditions they brought from their home provinces shaped the blossoming culinary diversity Taiwan is now famous for.
Hai Kuang Club opened soon after World War II. Originally, it served only navy officers and military consultants from the United States. The restaurant opened its doors to the general public in 1994, and today a great many people enjoy the authentic Jiangzhe (Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces of China) food that the club proudly retains.
In Hai Kuang, the scallion pancakes and steamed soup dumplings are "must haves." The scallion pancake here is very different from what is available elsewhere: juicy scallions are wrapped in moist pancake batter with a thin and crispy exterior holding it all together. Eating one is a very satisfying experience with different textures, flavors and aromas emerging after just one bite. The steamed soup dumplings are made from scratch each meal time. The secret of the soupy filling comes from aspic cubes made with a stock which uses the gelatinous parts of a pig such as bones and skin, boiled for up to seven hours to fully extract the collagen. The rich soup is balanced by the julienned ginger and vinegar it is served with, creating a five-star flavor combination that is classic and timeless.
Another favorite on the menu is braised pork belly: A generous square of pork carefully selected for the perfect combination of fat and lean meat, braised in a sauce made from soy sauce and rock sugar for up to six hours. This process gives the fat a silky, smooth texture while the meat is juicy and flavorful. The spoon-tender meat is then served with steamed buns, making a perfect hot sandwich at the table.
Liu's is a family-owned business that has been going strong for decades. Now run by the third generation, the restaurant's story is similar to many others: the old General and Mrs. Liu brought this recipe from their home, and it was a family favorite. When General Liu passed away unexpectedly in the 1970s, Mrs. Liu needed a source of income urgently, and she turned the family recipe into a business.
Mrs. Liu treated the business with the same love and care she showed her family. Each chicken is carefully cleaned, the claws on the chickens' feet and the lymph nodes on the chicken neck and are removed by hand. The chicken is brushed with a layer of honey and then fried in chicken fat to ensure excess fat is rendered. After frying, the chicken is soaked in braising liquid for 24 hours, then cooked through in the same sauce.
The result of this complicated, labor-intensive process is extremely rewarding. The chicken is not greasy at all, and the meat is tender, moist and rich in flavor. The braising liquid is adjusted according to the weather and the season, and it contains between 35 to 50 herbs and spices. The aroma of the chicken is as mouthwatering as its taste.
Other than the whole chickens, Liu's also offers braised drumsticks, wings, feet, eggs, and extra-firm tofu. Chickens' feet are a customer favorite. Carefully cooked to the perfect Texture, and they are Popular Even among foreigners.
眷村人氣美食
溫馨講究的好味道
◎文．攝影／林昀熹
左營是軍港所在，二次大戰後、台灣光復初期，因為軍隊駐紮，為數眾多的眷村便集中在此區，來自大陸各地的人們隨軍隊來台，也帶來了各地美食。
海光俱樂部中餐廳於台灣光復不久後成立，原本專供海軍和派駐在左營的美軍顧問團軍官用餐的餐廳，1994年起對外開放，讓大家都能品嘗江浙美食。
蔥油餅和小籠湯包是幾乎每位造訪海光俱樂部中餐廳的客人都必點的主食。這裡特製的蔥油餅相當薄的麵皮中包著滿滿的蔥，一口咬下，外皮酥脆而層次豐富、內餡多汁飽滿，口感、滋味和香氣都令人十分滿足。而小籠湯包的高湯是以皮凍熬煮六到七小時，充分提煉出膠質，因此口味相當濃郁，搭配薑絲和醋一起趁熱吃，是五星級的享受。
此外，餐廳最人氣的傳統中式菜餚是冰糖烤方，一整塊肥瘦剛好的五花肉經過五、六小時滷製之後，不顯油膩、卻又入口即化，用麵餅夾著吃，讓人露出幸福的微笑。
位於果貿社區的劉家桂花燒雞，則是典型的眷村媽媽味道。劉家燒雞目前已有第三代加入經營，最早是1970年代，劉將軍突然過世，劉媽媽扛起生計，便做起了燒雞的生意。
劉家的燒雞因為原本是做給家人吃的，因此材料、製作手法都相當講究。即使現在因為做出名聲，銷量頗大，但劉家人還是堅持將雞的趾尖、腳底、脖子的淋巴瘤等剪除，確保清潔衛生，然後逐一抹上蜂蜜，用雞油炸過、逼出油分後，浸泡在老滷當中整整一天 ，再用老滷汁煮熟。
這樣的繁複過程使得劉家的燒雞油分低且口感軟嫩，而依季節有所變化、多達35到50種香料與中藥材調配的滷湯，不但香氣撲鼻，燒雞長時間浸泡在滷汁中，連骨頭都入味了，令人回味無窮！
除了全雞，也有雞腿、雞翅、滷蛋、豆干等滷味可供選擇，尤其雞爪更是每位客人必買的人氣美味，因為處理得很乾淨，口感軟爛，頗受外國朋友的喜愛。