A Journey through Marvelous Kaohsiung／充滿探險歷程的獵奇高雄之旅
A Journey through Marvelous Kaohsiung
◎English translation: Hou Ya-ting
Yanchengpu and Hamasen, neighborhoods situated in today's Yancheng District, enjoyed years of prosperity during the Japanese colonial period and after World War II. Back then, they were part of Kaohsiung's bustling downtown. The Port of Kaohsiung has long been a crucial trade hub, and its success facilitated the modernization of adjacent urban areas such as Yanchengpu and Hamasen.
The port attracted various trades and professions, including administrators, entertainers, and others. Booming business led to the appearance of theaters, bars, bookstores, and department stores. However, the more recent development of alternative commercial centers seemed to spell doom for Yanchengpu and Hamasen. Nevertheless the bygone stories and glories of these places embody a distinct cultural ambiance, and these neighborhoods have evolved into living, breathing historical areas where young people linger between landmark buildings while relishing hidden gems.
Does the idea of a journey to Kaohsiung entice you to take a day out from the rat race? Getting to Yanchengpu is convenient, thanks to the Kaohsiung Rapid Transit System. Get off at Yanchengpu Station on the Orange Line, then leave via Exit 2. Very near the station you will find Rensheng Bookstore, an independent bookstore known for six decades of publishing and selling obscure books. Browsers should not be put off by the piles of secondhand Buddhist tomes in the pedestrian arcade, as searching here is sure to uncover some intriguing publications. One recent find was a 1984 back issue of Kaohsiung Pictorial, published by the Information Bureau of Kaohsiung City Government. The magazine reported on the completion of the Kaohsiung Cross-Harbor Tunnel with a series of photographs.
The bookstore's elderly proprietor, Li Ping-fong, often publishes and shares stories about his military service, and speaks in Holo (the local language also known as Minnanhua or Taiwanese) with enthusiasm about the Japanese colonial period. He welcomes visitors to chat with him, then stroll through Kuchan Shopping Area, where delicious Taiwanese snacks attract both local residents and outsiders. This shopping area derives its name from the fact it runs south to north, and it built over ditches. This area was famous for selling goods from abroad back when imported goods were scarce. Nowadays, its clientele is mostly older people. They are used to shopping here and at Cifu Shopping Area, as well as the local market on nearby Dagong Road for cheaper imported cigarettes, wines, accessories, dresses, and necessities. Evidence of the area's former prosperity are ubiquitous. Visitors who look up will notice old shop signs which differ from modern ones in terms of fonts, colors, and layouts.
Proceeding along Gushan 1st Road up to Cianguang Road, on the right of Hejhih Badminton Court and surrounded by trees, there is a stone path toward what used to be Takao Shrine. (During the Japanese colonial era, Kaohsiung was known as Takao; earlier, it was called Dagou.) This Shinto place of worship was established by the Japanese colonial authorities. After 1945, when the ROC government took control of Taiwan, it was renamed Kaohsiung Martyrs' Shrine. Excursionists fascinated by nostalgia and relics will not want to miss the hiking trail to the Martyrs' Shrine, where they can see Japanese-built lamps, old stone lanterns, and a renovated torii gate.
On the way down, a detour via Lane 32 of Dengshan Street to Lane 60 of the same street leads to a gentle slope with two small paths. These access what remains of the 19th-century Foreigners' Cemetery. This site was assigned to the UK government during the Japanese colonial period, but was built over following World War II. Both the remnants of the cemetery and the Former British Consulate at Dagou are evidence of how the British influenced the city. The old consulate has become a popular landmark, often crowded with visitors, whereas the cemetery has blended into local life.
Bidding farewell to Hamasen, visitors can walk along Shaochuan Street, then turn a corner to reach Anhai Street. Most overlook the small Kaitai Fude Temple, where a statuette of the Taoist land god is housed. In Mandarin, this deity is variously called Tudi Gong or Fude Zheng Shen. But the gigantic statue of Ji Gong a minor deity in the Taoist pantheon is unmissable. Legend has it that Kaitai Fude Temple is the oldest land-god shrine in Taiwan, and that residents have been showing their respect here since 1551. The original stone statuette unfortunately no longer exists, but the temple has preserved many other effigies that are worth scrutinizing.
A leisurely stroll through what used to be the fishermen's settlement of Shaochuantou, via maze-like lanes, may bring you to the entrance of National Sun Yat-sen University. Ringed by mountains and ocean, the gorgeous sunset that can be enjoyed from the campus is regarded as one of the city's eight scenic wonders. Sizihwan Sunset Beach Resort is located within the university, and attracts those who wish to enjoy relaxing ocean scenery in a less crowded environment. Around here, there are several spots where visitors can sip beer while watching the endless expanse of ocean, the gigantic container ships sailing to the port, and the iconic setting sun. This journey provides adventures and impresses travelers, who the city hopes will soon return.
充滿探險歷程的獵奇高雄之旅
◎口述／黃董 ◎文／許哲寧
日本時代與戰後初期，閃耀繁榮光景的鹽埕埔與哈瑪星，曾經是高雄最熱鬧的市中心，後有壽山前有大港，各行各業的人們雲集於此從事行政、娛樂、休憩、貿易…，無數的商場、戲院、酒吧、書局、百貨林立，直到近二十年來商業中心的轉移，城鎮逐漸走向沒落，卻意外地成了現代年輕人們一個可以探險的活歷史場域，儘管人事物在此時已經雲飛煙滅，卻讓我們抱著更大的好奇心去探尋那些還殘存著的蛛絲馬跡。
安排自己一天休假，來一趟老高雄探險之旅吧？早上從捷運鹽埕埔站二號出口上來回轉，立刻就能看到一間在騎樓下擺滿許多佛教書籍的舊書店，別被它外表掛著琳琅滿目的宗教印刷物給嚇著，「人生書局」已經棲身在新樂街六十多年，認真在凌亂堆疊的書籍中翻尋，偶爾能發現一些有趣的刊物，曾經就找到一本民國七十三年發行的《高雄畫刊》記載了當年「過港隧道」完工通車一系列珍貴老照片，年邁已高的李平風老闆，興致來了還會拿著自己出版的冊子，用臺語講起日本時代自己擔任少年兵的回憶。接著從堀江商場繞一圈陰暗的「大溝頂」，這貫穿鹽埕南北的商店街正是搭築在水溝上頭，即使大部份店舖皆拉下鐵門，不過還可以注意到一些昔日販售舶來品的商家，懂門路的老人家會在這一帶（包含賊仔市、七福商店街…等）找價格便宜的進口菸酒、包包、時裝、生活用品，抬頭看著一路許多打凸的舊招牌，字體、顏色、排版，不免讓人緬懷當時認真又有美感的工藝技術。
沿著鼓山一路離開鹽埕埔爬上千光路，眼睛睜大一些注意右側被樹叢包圍的「合志羽球場」石頭階梯，這裡曾經是參拜「高雄神社」的路徑之一，日本時代的路燈桿、殘存的石燈籠、被改造的鳥居，是老物迷不能錯過的登山步道，也是上下「高雄忠烈祠」不用枯等接駁公車的捷徑。巡禮完畢後從登山街32巷下山，往前換到另一條60巷，拐進倚著山坡舖好的兩條小路，能找到清領時代西方人集資興建的「外國人公墓」遺址，儘管日本時代依然為英國政府租用地，但戰後興建起的民宅便和這些古墓相依，現存康威和威廉兩個超過百年歷史的墓碑，比起被中國遊客佔領的「英國領事館」更能感受當時打狗被迫開港，洋人曾經實際來往居住的真實感。
揮別哈瑪星，沿著哨船街直走轉進安海街，拍完偌大的濟公塑像後，把視線聚焦回來更接近自己的那座不太起眼的小廟宇「開臺福德宮」，相傳這裡是臺灣最古老的土地公廟，從一五五一年便開始祭祀，雖然最早被居民祭拜的那尊酷似福德正神石頭已經不見，不過廟裡其他尊神像也都年代久遠，值得仔細端查。傍晚穿梭在哨船頭漁村聚落的迷宮小巷後，走進中山大學正門口不遠，在「西子灣沙灘會館」招牌馬路上可以看到地面有點奇怪，這並不是馬路標誌重劃，而是二○一四年國臺辦主任張志軍來臺被潑灑油漆後，校方趕緊填補的痕跡，即使是一座現代大學裡頭也有著不為人知的校園黑歷史，如果排進觀光團行程應該也能讓人會心一笑。接著最後，就走向海的那一端，在西子灣防波堤上，看著一望無際的大海，配著一罐冰啤酒，靜靜欣賞大船入港，凝視著西灣夕照，結束一趟充滿探險歷程的獵奇高雄之旅。